I think we might need to post more often! There’s a lot to remember at the moment, we are moving quickly and covering quite a lot of ground… it’s quite satisfying to see our blue dot on Google maps:
Not an awful lot to report on the last part of Russia, the roads are shrouded in tall tress and forest so you can’t really see anything and then there’s no campgrounds to be found either so we have started to use petrol stations, truck stops and “wild” camping. In Aktobe we slept in the street outside a hostel, it was £1 each for use of their showers and washing machine overnight so we tied some ropes from a gazebo across the inside of our tent and hung up the wet clothes. The heat and the wind had them bone dry in under two hours so we washed two loads of laundry… the rooftent got a lot of attention but we left it there in the middle of the city all day and no one touched a thing. We met another overlanding couple from Germany who were on the home stretch after 11 months travelling the world so we had a lot to talk about during the afternoon and late in to the night.
We have a little shower pump thing that you can stick in to a bucket and have a quick wash but mostly we are wet-wiping and it’s been a blistering hot and dusty trail to this point. We treated ourselves to a hotel here in Turkestan, we were dreaming of the shower yesterday afternoon when trying to rest ourselves and the car in the 40 degree heat, that poor machine just works so hard to do all this for us.
Turkestan has been a welcome reprieve and a genuinely lovely little place to take in some culture. Between 40 and 45 km’s north of the town is an archeological site called Sauran, an ancient silk road city. It was the coolest thing we’ve seen since we left London I think, but we haven’t seen much of anything other than Russian architecture so maybe we are over selling it? Nah, it’s pretty awesome. We even went hooning around the sandy dusty off-road tracks that encircle the site and gave the poor truck a bit of a hard time. Last night, after the longest cold showers ever, we had dinner at Turkestan’s “it” place, Edem Terassa. It was a bit out there but heaps of fun and it was packed with locals (and a few tourists as well!). About every half an hour the dance music would suddenly blast out of the speakers and the young guys and gals would all jump up for a dance, 10 minutes later the music would go back down and everyone would be back at their tables. Later we took a walk around the area of the Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yawasi which is totally enormous and apparently one of Kazakhstan’s most important buildings. It was close to midnight but all the local families were out in the dark at a makeshift street carnival, playing games and entertaining their kids… it was fantastic.
Kazakhstan in general has been welcoming and friendly; people always want to talk to us about where we are from, what we think of their country or town or food and so on. People wave and welcome us to their towns. It’s been quite heartwarming and puts me at ease. In terms of the landscape? That’s a tricky one, something Richard said made me think of the following description… it’s so flat that sometimes you think you are going to drive off the edge of the planet. The sunsets are some of the best we’ve seen though and if you can find some lumps and bumps in the surrounds then that’s probably the best place to camp for the night.
Ah, the hair cut by JetBoil, I nearly forgot about that. So we are on to our second water boiling device. The first having fizzled out with a whoosh in Prague taking all the fluffy bits off the cardi I was wearing at the time. The second device almost went the same way yesterday but Richard managed to revive it after losing a fair amount of hair on the left side of his head and the ends of his eyelashes!
There’s probably more to tell you but checkout time is looming and we are trying to reach Almaty tomorrow which is 11 hours of driving from here (doesn’t seem much but it can take a full day to do what is described as “5.5 hours”).